Sunday 29 March 2015

Khao Lak

It was time to leave Bangkok.  I had booked a cab with the hotel the day before, also checking how long it would take to get to the airport.  She told us that 40 minutes was ample, so we booked at 8 for our 10.35 am flight.  Forty minutes in the taxi had us about 3 kilometres down the road where we had been sitting for a good fifteen minutes without moving.  It was hard to tell what was happening, but with no traffic at all coming from the opposite direction, and what appeared to be police bikes further down the road, we were inclinded to think that the traffic had been stopped for a formal cavalcade.  Fortunately we do prefer to allow a little extra so we still arrived with time to spare.

The flight was uneventful, taking off and landing on time.  This return flight to Phuket was again with Thai Smiles and we can't fault them for service and a very low price.  I also had the seats behind premium economy, and we were the only ones in that row.  There were no passengers in the premium economy section, so for about the first time ever, we were the first off the plane.

I had organised transport with our accommodation, and we were quite impressed with the private car with leather seats that picked us up.  Quite an improvement on Bangkok taxis.

It was an easy one hour drive to Khao Lak and we arrived in time for a late lunch at the waterfront restaurant the accomodation has.  I had booked the second best rooms, but emailed a couple of weeks ago to ask if the waterfront were still available.  So glad we changed as this is just heavenly.  We have an extended verandah compared to the other rooms, so lots of space to sit outside and enjoy the view with the water about ten metres from our steps.  Of course it was into the water as soon as possible.  It was so warm it bordered on being hot, my sort of temperature for getting wet.  So easy just to float out there.  After a walk into the business area and a little shoppig, we thought we might just eat at the same place for dinner, but discovered them closed, so after watching the sunset from our verandah we just walked a little way up the beach until we found one that suited.  A great elevated spot by the water.  By this stage we had discovered that Hayden, Belinda and Jack were no longer coming the next day, as the specialist had deemed Thailand not the best place to take Jack's burnt hand.  Despite this disappointment we weren't sorry to be here, as it is a lovely place to finish our holiday.  We also have no wifi signal problems here, one of the routers is in our room.

Jim relaxing at our bungalow

The bungalow, far left, from the water

Friday morning after breakfast it was low tide, so a good time to try snorkelling from outside our room.  When the tide is out there is quite a lot of rock and reef to explore and we enjoyed it immensely.  We then donned our walking shoes and headed south along the beach, amazed at all the accommodation lining the  water.  When we reached the rocks and could go no further, we nipped through one of the resorts to get back onto the main road to return to our accommodation.

Morning walk

Artistic crabs

After lunch and another swim, we made another of our crazy decisions and headed off for a long walk in the hottest part of the day.  It was a little over 3 ks to the Tsunami Museum.

Khao Lak was the worst hit area of Thailand during the 2004 Tsunami (something you try not to think about with a beachside bungalow).  The museum could really have had a lot more in it, but they did have videos that they put on for us, and comfortable seating to rest after our long hot walk.  We think it likely that it is just something a booking agency (out the front) has put together, but there was no charge, we were given a refreshing jasmine tea, and no pressure for anything else.

Nearby is the Tsunami Memorial Park, which doesn't really look completed yet.  There is a  large concrete wave sculpture, but dominating the park is the police boat.
This very large boat was guarding the King's grandson who was water skiing (and unfortunately did not survive).  The tsunami picked it up and carried it nearly 2 kilometres inland.  The boat has been mounted where it came to rest.  A sobering reminder of the power of the tsunami.  But everywhere you look, you can see the resilience of the people and marvel at what has been achieved in ten years and the effort it must have taken.

Boat 813

Memorial

As the walk up to there had been quite hot, we thought if a taxi came along we might get it back.  But what a laugh.  The number of times we have been touted and not wanted one, and when we do, none are in sight.  In the end we found that as it was now around 5.00 pm the heat was out of the day, there was now quite a lot of shade, and the walk back didn't seem anywhere near as long.  By the time we got back, we had been gone three hours.  Jim convinced me to try another foot massage, so I agreed to half an hour at the massage hut near our room. She wasn't as bad but I still have bruises.  Even though it is a foot massage, they always finish with a neck and shoulder.  I still can't work out how Jim can front up for two hours of this torture.  Time for another swim before dinner.

Just not my thing I think

Saturday morning after breakfast and more snorkelling we decided to walk north up the beach.  This was an even bigger eye opener.  There were bars and restaurants for a huge distance along the beach.  We walked through a creek that Jim had read about.  It was low tide and only ankle deep, but when the tide is in it can be shoulder height.  An enterprising Thai has set up a ferry service, and will take you the few metres over for 20 baht.  Around midday we caught up with Hayden's friend, Paul and family, who had arrived the night before.  After discovering we were planning on having dinner in the same direction we arranged to meet up.

On our way back we had lunch at the nice restaurant from the first night.  This then gave Jim time to head off for another of his two hour massages while I enjoyed my rocking chair and a book.  Another swim and it was time to meet Paul for dinner.  We found a nice looking place in the main street, and the food was very good, especially the fish.  Little Harry woke during dinner, but was quite happy if allowed to partake of some of the table contents.  There is a four hour time difference and it is amazing how quickly kids can adapt.

For the second night running, I just had to stop at the pancake stall on the way home.  I don't know what they are made off, but they stretch the dough out like a very thin pizza, throw it on a hot work, add bananas to it, then fold over and turn.  Delicious.

View from our room

Inside the room


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