Tuesday 10 March 2015

Bangkok and Beyond

Friday morning Jim woke having had no pain overnight from his tooth extraction.  So now we had to find something soft for breakfast.  The street vendor opposite had steamed buns and they seemed to fit the bill.

After catching up on a bit more washing it was time for the beach.  Because we wore hats and sunglasses while in the water this time the heat and glare weren't a problem and we were amazed to discover we had been gone for two hours.  The water really is beautiful.

After a light lunch we decided as we had already walked to Kata we would head in the opposite direction. This was probably a bit crazy as it was the hottest part of the day and there was not as much shade as I had had hoped for, but we made it the 2.5 k's along the beach road to the Patak Rd intersection.  On the way we went into a market and couldn't believe how hot and stuffy it was in there.  And those poor stall holders have to work in those conditions.  The sweat was pouring off us and we just couldn't stay in what was an unbearably hot tin shed any longer.

When we got to Partak Road we walked further up the road and back and in and out of side streets, then decided to do something that we hadn't thought necessary as we had experienced it a couple of times before.  We had a fish spa.  I think we really decided to do it because we got to sit down with our feet in water for twenty minutes.  However, our feet did feel smoother afterwards.  Back we walked, but as it was now later in the day there was a bit more shade and a light breeze blowing towards us.

As we were walking out to dinner I decided to check on my sunglasses as we had been told to call in at nine.  However, when we went in, she had just got them in.  What a lovely lady Hui is, and my glasses in their Swatch frames look wonderful.  My existing sunglasses were quite old and  I was now unable to read easily with them and it had got very frustrating as I kept having to change over to read anything.  They cost me around $280 but the cheapest I was quoted in Australia was $700.  I'm looking forward to trying these out over our holiday.

Dinner that night was at a bar restaurant on the beach road.  We'd chosen it during the day when looking for something suitable for Jim.  Seafood Lasagna sounded like it should fit the bill, but ordinary lasagna was what came out.  By the time he got the correct meal mine was nearly finished.  But he enjoyed it when it finally came.

Saturday morning it was time to pack up, have breakfast in the cafe downstairs and catch our prebooked taxi to the airport.  The traffic was heavy but we had allowed plenty of time.  Getting through Phuket Airport took some time as there are two security screening areas to negotiate, plus the time to check bags in.  In the end the plane actually left early, and landed 25 minutes ahead of time.  Not bad for what was supposed to be an hour and ten minute flight.  We were quite impressed with Thai Smiles, a budget offshoot of Thai Airways.  Around $56 a ticket, comfortable plane, and we even got a snack pack.  Jim was very impressed that I had snagged row 4 directly behind premium economy.

And then we were in Bangkok and a whole new world was opening up to us.  We followed the signs to the taxi rank to be astounded by this enormous area with 7 lanes of people lined up waiting for taxis.  It is well organised but still took about 30 minutes before our turn for a taxi.  That was the next shock.  We reached around for our seatbelt to discover there were none.  After seatbelts becoming second nature it didn't feel very comfortable either tearing through at break neck speed or chopping in or being chopped off while not wearing one.  But after about 40 minutes we safely reached our destination.  The taxis here are metered and it seemed ridiculous after the 400 baht we had paid for just 7k's in Phuket to be charged only 280 for that long distance, so I gave him a bit more.

I had picked the Viengtai Hotel purely because it was where our Intrepid Tour is starting from, so convenient to leave our larger bags behind.  But I hadn't realised just what a vibrant area it is in.  It's in the old part of town with narrow streets and little alleys everywhere.  And market stalls!!  If we were disappointed in the prices in Phuket we had to control ourselves here.  After only about fifteen minutes we had to make a pact that no more for that day as we are coming back twice more.  We took a tiny narrow twisting lane that said shortcut to Khao San and out we came to a closed off road with people and stalls everywhere.  There were a lot of police/soldiers here too, which I guess is a reminder that the country is still under martial law.

It was then back to the hotel to try out their pool before dinner, where we chose the place directly opposite the hotel as it seemed good value.  And it was, and good food too.

After dinner, where was Jim?  Off on another two hour massage of course.  I was initially concerned how he would enjoy coming here, but I'm wondering if I will have trouble getting him to leave.

It was after ten when he got back, eager to tell me about the change in the street outside.  So off we headed to see what Saturday night in Bangkok looked like. Our street had now been closed off and many of the bars and restaurants had moved tables and chairs out onto the street.  We did a circuit and then walked down Khao San Road.  What a wild party that was.  But we are a bit too old for that, so back to bed.

It was a set an alarm clock morning on Sunday so that we had time to have breakfast before getting to the railway station for our 7.50 train to Kanchanaburi.  We left our cases in storage and just took backpacks.  We were surprised to see quite a few army/police (haven't worked out what they are) at the station and Jim saw some of them taking photos of us.  Once on the train one of them came over to talk to us, but it really seemed like he just wanted to practise his English.  A little off putting though.


The train is classified as third class, but we ended up with vinyl rather than wooden seats and it was quite comfortable.  It's a relaxed trip out there.  The train actually left spot on time, but instead of taking 2.5 hours for the 125 kilometre journey, it was nearly 3.5.  Not sure what happened there.  Once we arrived it was only a short walk to Tara Raft, our lovely floating room on the River Kwai.

How gorgeous is our room!  We were lucky enough to get the best room right at the end and the furthest over the water.  Feels like you are sitting right in the middle of the river.  Whenever any large boats go past, we gently rock.  The king size bed, which takes up most of the area,  is the most comfortable we have had yet.  The bathroom is a little strange with the shower right at the door so you have to walk through it, but it worked OK.  It is air conditioned with a fridge, desk etc and cost me all of $65 for the two nights.

Our floating room

On the balcony

Front of the building.  You have to climb stairs over the roof and then down to get to the entrance



Once we had finished settling into our room, we just had to take the 2.5 k walk to the Bridge Over the River Kwai.  It was quite hot outside, about 38, so we were rather warm and sweaty by the time we got there.  On the way there we organised our tour for the Monday.
On the Bridge
In front of the bridge after our tour


After dropping some shopping back at our room, and a quick shower, we headed to the Death Railway Museum that we passed after leaving the train station.  It was now 4 and it closed at 5, but we got around the majority of it, just didn't see all the video.  Across the road is one of the War Graves and we spent short time in there.  Too depressing to stay longer.


After a walk around some streets we hadn't yet been to, it was back to the room to sit on the verandah and enjoy the sunset and the river.  By the time we had had enough of that, it was getting a bit late and rather than walk back into the town area, we went to the guesthouse next door which has a restaurant.  They also have a river view, so a lovely night.

Monday we had an 8 am pick up for our tour.  There were six other young people on the tour.  First stop was at Erawan Falls in the National Park.  These falls are on seven levels and we walked as far as the fifth. We had 2.5 hour here and decided not to go any further to allow ourselves plenty of time for a swim.  After the second level there is a check station where you have to show what food and drink you have.  There is a 20 baht deposit on each item, and when you return back down you get your deposit refunded.  An interesting way to keep people from dropping rubbish.

We had chosen the second pool to swim in, and it was really lovely especially after a hot walk up and down lots of steps.  They only thing I wasn't impressed with was all the fish in the pool, especially when they like to try a nibble.  I know we had the fish spa, but I much prefer the controlled environment rather than the sneaky things coming up behind you.

Swimming with the fish


The waterfall at level 3

Lunch was included in the tour, and we had to be back at 11.40 for this.  From here we dropped off the four who were doing the elephant trekking and we and another couple continued on to Hellfire Pass.

This was one of the hardest and the most cruel part of the Death Railway.  Australia has set up a museum and a walking trail through the cutting.  It is over 400 metres long and 25 metres at the greatest depth and completely cut by hand.  The sweat was pouring off us by the time we got back to the bus, and we cannot imagine how bad it must have been working up to 18 hours a day in those conditions and worse when the monsoons came.

The walkway on the old railway bed



The cutting

Beautiful view into the valley from the top of the cutting


The only disappointment we had was that we had asked when booking how long did we get at Hellfire Pass, and it was important to us to have plenty of time.  We were told two hours there.  However, it appears we were onsold to another tour company and we only had one and a quarter hours, so felt quite rushed and didn't have the experience we were looking for.  We would have liked to have walked a bit further along the track rather than just the 500 metres that we did.

Next stop was Krasae Cave, a Budhist Temple which is beside the railway and was used as a camp by POWs.  This is the most beautiful part of the railway and the view down the river and along the railway bridges is spectacular.  We boarded the train here and went three stations before the bus picked us up and took us back to Kanchanaburi  and the Bridge.  As we had already walked over this the day before, we just walked around the area until it was time to be taken back to our lodging.

Next to the railway line at Krasae Cave.  Note the trestle bridges in the background.

Jim of course headed off for another massage while I enjoyed the sunset, and when he returned we walked back into town and found a nice restaurant with lovely Thai food.  When we got back to our room we were amazed to see the number of fish that were outside.  We don't know if it was the lights that attract them, or that the raft traps grasses and things in the river's flow.  Then it was time for another night of comfy sleep in our floating room.

Sunset from our room

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