Within 30 minutes we had left the flat land of Chiang Mai and were into the hills. First stop was only an hour down the road at the Hot Springs where we dipped our feet in the extremely hot water. It required quite an effort to work up to keeping them in there for any length of time, and I kept thinking of the eggs that were boiling in the pool out the front and wondering were my feet heading the same way.
Eggs cooking
and feet cooking?
At the entrance
Another hour and a half had us at our lunch stop just outside of Chiang Rai. This had the most spectacular temple we had seen, reminding us of a gingerbread house. It was all shine and twinkle.
Beautiful temple from the front
and from the side
After lunch we turned off the main road and were now well and truly in rural farming country. We stopped outside a farm where our guide explained the rice paddies and showed us the other fruits and vegetables that were growing there.
Dragon Fruit plant
Within two hours we were at our destination for the night at Chiang Khong and our first glimpse of the mighty Mekong River. After a day in the bus we were keen on a long walk along the river. Dinner that night was in a restaurant looking over the river.
View of the Mekong from outside the guesthouse
Unusual verandah area at the entrance to our room
The next morning we had to be up and ready to leave by 8.00. It was a twenty minute drive to the border crossing. On entering Laos, we handed over our passports through a window, and then everyone crowds around another window while you wait for them to process and then hold up your passport so you can then pay for the visa. This took around half an hour before everyone had been processed. At this point we also met up with our Laos guide. We then got into another two mini buses for another twenty minute trip to discover we were back where we started but on the opposite side of the river.
The restaurant view from the water
It was then time to board our slow boat. This description is in relation to the other transport option which is a small fast speed boat. We saw many of these go past us and they did not look a comfortable option at all. However, our boat was quite a surprise to us all as we had imagined something much smaller. The boat owner and his wife live on the boat up one end and the boat can actually take over a hundred people. So there was heaps of room for just fifteen of us. The roof on one part of the boat slides back so that you can sit in the sun.
There were many boats lined up, and they are crammed in close together. They all have put timber up to prevent damage to the sides as they try to manoeuvre in or out.
Getting the boats out
It was surprisingly chilly on the water in the morning. It is very unfortunate that farmers in the north of Thailand and Laos burn their farms at this time of year and the air was heavy with smoke. Our guide said that the government is trying to stop them and fine them, but it isn't working as they still continue to burn. Many times it has been extremely thick, and we had ash falling on the boat at one stage. It has also spoilt what would be beautiful views if you could just see them.
Relaxing on the boat
speed boats
Villages in the jungle
This was a lovely relaxed way to travel as we made our way down the Mekong. The boat owner's wife cooked a delicious lunch for us. Around 4.30 we had reached our destination for the evening of Pak Beng. This is a quite remote village perched on the side of a steep hill and a fascinating stop. I asked our Laos guide if tourism had changed the village a lot, as we could see many slow boats stopped there for the night. He said that it wasn't that many years ago that the only power the town had was generator but now there is power to the whole village. He also said that up to about three years ago the only guesthouse was about ten rooms with two outside toilets. Our guesthouse was built about three years ago and we could not complain about the airconditioned room we had with our private bathroom. We all walked up to the local market where we were shown the many and varied foods available. These range from beautiful fresh looking fruits and vegetables, chicken and pork and even rats on sticks. We also witnessed a stunning sunset on the river. Dinner was at our guesthouse, who have embraced tourism with a varied menu that even included pizza and french fries if you so desired. The french influence was also evident with the number of bakeries with croissants and bagels.
Outside our room at the Phonemany Guesthouse
Local market - rats on sticks
Smoky sunset view of the Mekong
The back of some buildings built on the steep slopes
View looking up the road from the guesthouse
Tuesday was another early morning, needing to be at the boat by 7.30. We had coffee and croissant on our way there for breakfast. Back on our boat it was another restful trip. We had two stops on the way. First was at a small village of Hmong people, original mountain people. As soon as they see you coming, you have an instant popup market.
Heading back to the boat in the morning
View of Pak Beng from the water
Elephants on the bank
Hmong village. This lady was asking if anyone had any glasses they could give her. Sadly no one did.
Weaving thatch for the roof
Our boat waiting at the village
Our next stop was at the Pak Ou Caves and temple. Lots of steps to get to the top cave, but we made it. Back on the boat it was less than an hour to our final destination of Luang Prabang. It was around five by the time we reached our hotel, and after an hour to freshen up we all walked down to the night market and the restaurant that had been booked for us.
Pak Ou temple cave
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