Our last few days in Khao Lak were very restful and relaxing which was then negated by the overnight flight home on the 30th March where it was impossible to get much sleep. After arriving at 6.00 am we took the free airport bus back to the carpark to discover to our delight that the car started first go. I guess the new batteries only a few weeks earlier would have helped.
It was a three hour drive to Bridgetown where we had left the van, and due to the lack of sleep we found we needed to pull over twice for a nap. At least we didn't have a large time zone to contend with as there is only an hour difference.
Arriving back only a couple of days before Easter meant that it would be impossible to head off straight away, way too busy everywhere. So we decided to leave just after Easter. But we were foiled by the weather which decided to rain, rain and more rain. At least staying put meant we were in a house rather than crammed into the caravan.
Eventually the weather changed, and on Tuesday 14th April we finally got underway to lovely blue skies. Our first stop half an hour later and the clouds were moving in. By the time we got out of the supermarket it was raining, and this continued until we reached Denmark. We made two other stops on the way, Walpole for lunch where we huddled in the van, and a toffee factory just outside of Denmark. This was a very enjoyable little stop. Expensive, but they had lots of things for tasting. If we had known about it before and realised it had a lovely cafe, we may have waited for lunch.
On arriving at Denmark we firstly went down to the Ocean Beach park but discovered it wasn't really on the ocean and with the weather we felt we were better near the town. We ended up at the Rivermouth park, where we just about had our pick of sites even though it was school holidays. Talking to the people in the office, it seemed they had an avalanche of cancellations because of the wet weather. So we ended up with a huge site right on the water and great views. Plus as the next day was Wednesday, we also got their free inlet cruise.
View from our dining window
So Wednesday morning we were down before nine to board the cruise. This was a great freebie, supposed to be $30 each. It lasted about an hour and a half and we got a different perspective of the inlet. Afterwards we took one of the walking tracks along the river into the town where we looked through the shops and had lunch at one of the bakeries.
The park from the water. Van is there somewhere
The sun came out in the afternoon and we went exploring some of the nearby beaches including Lights Beach. Thursday morning we continued our explorations going to Greens Beach, Elephant Rock, Waterfall Beach and Madfish Bay. All lovely spots and Jim tried fishing unsuccessfully.
Surfers at Ocean Beach
Elephant Rock
It was back to the van for lunch and Jim was still keen to catch a fish. He headed back to Lights Beach and was rewarded with a lovely 49cm flathead. Fish for dinner that night.
Friday morning was a leisurely packup and we headed out just before ten. We were heading to Albany, but decided to stop and have a look at a free camp we had heard about at Cosy Corner. Still being school holidays, we didn't expect to find a spot, so were very surprised when a perfect spot for us had just been vacated. Our van was booked in to have the air conditioner fixed on Tuesday, so still plenty of time to chill out at this lovely little spot. Despite the fact it was salmon season, Jim didn't have any luck. He tried the beach at the camp, then the next day after it rained all night, we drove to Shelley Beach. This was quite a spectacular spot, and although others were bringing some in, he had no luck. It wasn't his favourite type of place as the waves were quite big and fierce, and he ended up quite wet.
Looking down on rugged Shelley Beach and the keen salmon fisherman.
Our van tucked into Cosy Corner
Saturday afternoon we drove to Torbay Inlet, another free camp, and he tried his luck there, hoping for a bream or two. No such luck, probably because of all the recent rain putting too much freshwater in.
4WD drive track out to Torbay Inlet.
After the overcast Saturday, it was wonderful to get up to blue skies and warm sunshine. This called for a long walk along the beach before Jim tried some more unsuccessful fishing. In the afternoon we were happy to just enjoy the warmth and the sunshine before another walk to the beach. But once we got there we saw that the tide was out and the waves more gentle and quite a few people were in the water. So Jim headed back for his boogie board.
Boogie board time
By Monday it was time to move on to Albany as we needed to be there as the van was booked into have the air conditioner fixed first thing on Tuesday. Our original plan was to stop two nights, but in the end we stopped for seven.
Apart from the great range of shops, there is quite a lot to see in Albany. We spent the afternoon while the van was being fixed at the National ANZAC Centre. In the end we were sorry we didn't have a lot more time for this excellent new facility. It has been built to take advantage of the magnificent sweeping views of the bay, the last place in Australia that the soldiers saw when heading to Gallipoli. We got there at 1.30 so only had half an hour before the free tour of the outside buildings. This took a good hour and a half which didn't leave much time to go through the centre before having to be back to pick the van up before 4.30. We saw all the exhibits, but you are issued with sound pens that you run across an icon and you get an audio soundtrack. There were lots of these, but no time to listen to them. Apparently a lot of them are from actual letters that were written back to home.
On another day we went back and did the other part of the park taking the many, many steps to the War Memorial and Light Horse Memorial. Beautiful views from up there.
Sculpture at the ANZAC Centre
Great view
While we were there we could see them setting up for the ANZAC Day dawn service. Albany claims to be the home of the first dawn service, so being 100 years there were a lot of people in town. The area is not very big and certainly very limited parking there. We opted not to attend the dawn service as people had to be bused up there from a couple of points in town, and that meant 3.30 am start.
However, on ANZAC Day we did go into the town and saw the end of the service and march. There were huge crowds around. We also drove back up to the ANZAC Centre and did some of the walks around there that we had missed the previous times.
Anzac Day crowds
Fly over
During our week we also drove out to the Frenchmans Bay area where the scenery is spectacular. One of the places we drove into was Salmon Rocks, where two fisherman had drowned only the previous weekend. This certainly wasn't the type of place where Jim likes to fish and those that fish here must be very keen indeed. I believe 11 people have now been lost fishing from this spot.
Looking across to Discovery Bay (previously known as Whale World)
Salmon Rocks
Jimmy Newell's Harbour
We also did a day trip out to the Porongurup National Park. One of the highlights is the Granite Sky Walk. It was a very steep 2.2 kilometre walk up to it, and we kept hoping it was worth it. Fortunately it really was. Don't know who would think to put something like that up there. Apparently it all had to be flown in by helicopter. But the views from the top are 360 degrees of magic. Unfortunately the weather was just starting to close in, but we did make it back down before any rain.
The Sky Walk
The final part a was climb over large rocks then up a ladder
View from the top
Balancing Rock
The Sky Walk from the road. It's on that high piece of granite in the middle
Another reason we had been happy stopping longer in Albany was the place we were staying at. It is on a property about twelve k's from town and you have to be fully self sufficient. Roy's Place was only $5 a night and we loved it there. Every night they light fires and wood heaters and there is a happy hour where we met lots of other travellers. Many people that stop there are like us and arrive for a couple of days and leave a week later. One couple in a bus arrived New Year's Day and have been there ever since. They have had some major repair issues and are getting in parts etc. Meanwhile they are acting as camp hosts for Roy which works out very well all round. Jim had been talking to Ian, the bus owner, admiring the heater he had made from a gas cylinder (very flash, even had glass windows). Jim told him he had been wanting to get an old gas bottle to cut down as a fire pit. The next day when we got back Ian had found an old one of Roy's and then proceeded to help Jim cut it down and reassemble. It's great and fits into the milk crates on the car roof. I'm sure we are going to need it in the coming weeks, especially when we cross the Nullabor.
By Monday of the long weekend it was time to farewell our new friends, and we headed out to restock food, fuel and water. My plan was to go to Norman's Beach, a free camp only about forty minutes drive away. I wasn't overly hopeful of getting a spot as it was a beautiful day and I expected many to still be there. We arrived in time for lunch and I was amazed to find we had it almost to ourselves. I's a very pretty spot on a freshwater inlet, but about 350 metre walk over sand dunes and down steep steps to the beach. This wasn't easy with fishing gear, and as Jim didn't catch anything, we opted to move on to our next destination of Cheynes Beach. Again this was only about a forty minute drive and it is such a pretty place. We are now starting to get into the areas that have the most magnificent coloured seas. Although the park isn't on the water you are able to drive along the beautiful white sandy beach. Unfortunately it is also the place that a 17 year old was taken by a shark just before Christmas.
Nice camp spot at Normans Beach
On Normans Beach
The weather was still lovely and as we had arrived before 10 am, I immediately starting catching up on two weeks of washing. Two loads in their machine and two in mine and the line was full and the wash basket empty. We drove out to Waychinacup Inlet, another very pretty spot in a National Park.
Waychinacup Inlet
Huge site at Cheyenes Beach
Cheynes Beach - the photo doesn't do justice to the colour of the water.
But no fish for Jim here either, and as it is a fairly pricey park we opted to head out the next morning, aiming for Bremer Bay. Two thirds of the way there, about 100 kilometres, we decided to detour six k's off the road and have a look at a basic camp at Millers Point Reserve. We liked this place so much that we immediately set up camp at a great spot right on the water and with water views on both sides of us. And we could even have fire with wood supplied. The day was a bit of an Indian Summer with the temperature around 27. We walked to the lookout and took in beautiful views to the inlet mouth. It was a beautiful evening and we were still in t shirts until quite late. Dinner that night was cooked in the camp oven over the fire. Yum.
The next morning, early, Jim was delighted to catch a good size bream but then nothing. The ranger came around mid morning and after paying for the one night, we chatted to him about whether to move on or not. The weather although still warm was starting to change and getting very overcast with the wind now coming up. He told us that the salmon were running well at Bremer Bay and where was the best place to fish. So in a very short time we were back on the road and set up at Bremer Bay for lunch. During the afternoon we drove out to a number of the beaches and Jim agreed with the ranger's choice of beach. Needless to say he was up very early the next morning determined to finally catch a salmon. And while he was there, the ranger turned up to see if he had taken his advice and to see how he was getting on. In the end he caught two huge salmon with three getting away. I've now just got to work out what to do with so much of them. We had some for lunch and I believe they make lovely fish cakes. I'll have to keep scouring for more recipes.
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