Monday 16 September 2013

Bayeux and other heights

Friday morning we left Versailles for our journey to Bayeux.  This entailed a metro trip back into Paris, then a two hour train journey through the countryside.

We arrived mid afternoon, dumped our bags and headed to the Tourist Information.  I had done a lot of research on what we wanted to see but had not had time to book anything.  Unfortunately this was a weekend, and a busy one at that.  We did manage to get on a tour of the Normandy beaches for Sunday morning, but all the options to Mont St Michel were booked.  The only other option the girl could come up with was a private car and driver hire.  We were quite surprised when this was still free.

After organising this, we then decided to have a look around this lovely little town with its beautiful old buildings.  Lauren and I were quite pleased to discover the many little boutiques at quite reasonable prices, and we both had a little shopping splurge.

Saturday morning arrived with our driver and his lovely car spot on time.  Sometimes it is amazing how things work out.  We had been looking at not being able to make this trip at all, and we suddenly discover we have perhaps the most knowledgeable guide in the area.  Pierre was actually going to have Saturday off, and when the tourist info girl told him we were from Australia, he did not want us to miss out.  We also discovered he is fully booked until the end of October.  He was born in the area and can trace his family back to the mid 1500's.  History is his passion and his breadth of knowledge was outstanding.  

We think we had to have had the best tour possible and learnt far more of the history of Mont St Michel than most would get.  He was a fountain of knowledge on the way, pointing out many sites and facts.  We went through a small town that he told us had been 95% destroyed during the war, and then another larger town that had been completely destroyed.   After spending the morning at Mont St Michel he then took us to the town of Avranches to show us the legend he had told us about.  St Michael is supposed to have appeared in a dream to Aubert the bishop of Avranches in 708, instructing him to build a church on the mount.  Aubert thought he was only dreaming and kept ignoring this message, until one night St. Michael took his finger and burned a whole in his skull so he would know it wasn't a dream.  In the cathedral in Avranches is the skull complete with hole on display.
Mont St Michael from the village

At the top

This Bishop's skull.  Hard to take with the lighting. The hole is in the top left corner.


From here we went to the town of Villedieu les Poeles, famous for its bell foundry.  Last year they completed 8 new bells for Notre Dame in Paris.  We found this tour very interesting and unique.

A finished bell in the foreground, and the cast for the new bell for the cathedral in Bayeux.

We returned late afternoon, but with time to still explore.  We had certainly picked a top weekend for all the sites.  It was the French Patrimoine weekend, where all museums and public places were free!!  Plus many things are open that aren't the rest of the year.  No charge for Mont St Michel and we saw the original part of the church not normally open.  Next visit was to the Bayeux Tapestry.  This tapestry is nearly 1000 years old and 70 metres long, depicting the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

Close by was the Bayeux Cathedral.  We spent some time looking around the church, when Lauren discovered a special tour was about to depart.  Some people booked in had failed to show, so they were prepared to take us.  Unfortunately my French was not good enough to prepare me for what we were in for.  We ended up doing the hunchback of Notre Dame thing.  And this is another Notre Dame.  Before I knew it we were within the ceiling of the cathedral.  I kept thinking - this thing is about
1000 years old and I'm walking in the ceiling!!  But it didn't stop there, as we started up this tight stairwell, and came out in the bell tower.  Was that enough - hell no - now they take us out the door onto the a parapet that went the whole circuit of the building.  We are talking seriously high up here.  I am starting to wonder why I have let myself in for this, when we start to go downstairs again.  Ahh I think, finished at last.  No way, because she then found more bell towers, and not only that, we also went out onto the roof at the top of the stained glass windows.  This was certainly an unbelievable and unique experience, but I'm not sure if I really gave it the appreciation it deserved.

The tour  ended up taking an hour and a half, so it was quite a late dinner that night.
From up in one of the bell towers

I'm not letting go of something solid.

Up with the flying buttresses and the stained glass windows.

Another view from up top.

The outside of the beautiful cathedral


We were up early the next morning for our 8.00 am start for our tour of the D Day landing sites.  This was a sobering and thought provoking experience.  To see the challenges they endured, then the row and upon row of crosses in the American cemetery was hard to comprehend.  It is surprising how many of the German batteries are still standing, even some that were bombed in the landing.
German fortifications

Part of the American cemetery.

Bomb craters


Omaha Beach.  So peaceful now.


Something we had not heard of before was the artificial port built straight after D Day that then supplied the lines.  There was some unique film footage of trucks and supplies being offloaded on these bridges.  Much of this concrete and steel harbour still survives.  We were told how these constructions were made in England with the workers not being told what they were building so the secret could not get out.
Remnants of the artificial harbour in the background and unused spare parts on the beach

With our morning tour over we returned to the museum in Bayeux where we soaked up more of the war history in this large display.  Then it was back to collect our bags from the hotel.

Our ferry to England didn't leave until 11..00 pm, but unfortunately the last bus to the ferry terminal leaves at 6, so we had an early arrival and long wait to board.  Despite our rather cramped 4 berth cabin, we all slept well lulled by the gentle movement of the boat.

And so to England.

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