A mini van arrived right on 9.00 o'clock to take us to the depot for our 9.30 bus. I gathered it left relatively on time, being only about 15 minutes late. The sign as we left said Battambang 167 kilometres. but the trip took over 3 and a half hours. The first obstacle was getting out of the street the depot is located in. Half the street is market, so the bus had to negotiate through what wasn't much more than an alleyway, while not collecting any stalls, pedestrians or motos. Then we spent the next half hour getting out of the city by what appeared to be the back way as we passed many rice paddies and potholes. After a couple more pickups, we finally cleared Battambang and again it was just rice paddies and pot holes. Sometimes the bus almost comes to a halt, the road was that bad. Then you'd get a stretch that was quite good, and off you would go, being treated to Cambodian road maneuvers. This is where all vehicles overtake whether there is anything else coming or not, accompanied by sounding the horn. Interesting trip.
With only an hour left of driving, we have to stop in Sisaphon, a compulsory 30 minute rest break. We all pile off, the bus heads off, and reappears half an hour later, with any remaining space in the baggage hold now filled with produce etc.
So, only a little late, we reach our destination, our tuk tuk driver from the hotel is waiting, and in a short time we are checked into our hotel room. We discovered the next day that there are two prices - with or without air conditioning. We didn't get an option, they obviously took one look at us and just gave us air conditioning. Those with the A/C are given a remote control with their room key. The room was fine if basic, for the princely sum of $18 a night. But the hotel does have a pool, and after a late lunch and look around the local market, that's where we made our way.
Battambang was a nice change from Siem Reap. Not as many tourists make it there, and it was delightful to walk through the market with not one person trying to shove an item at you.
To our delight, Lauren and Lee actually turned up half an hour early. Lucky they were at the bus stop early as the bus was just about to leave and they just made it on board. Another volunteer who was going to travel with them got to the depot five minutes early to discover the bus already gone. She waited two hours for the next one. So buses are a bit unpredictable over here.
We all went out to dinner together, and headed back to the hotel for what was to be a big day the next day.
We had breakfast at a lovely cafe frequented by westerners. The previous afternoon we had a cappuccino at the hotel cafe, and it was nice but quite small. So this time we asked for a big one. It came in a soup mug!
Lee had organised a larger tuk tuk for us through a friend. By this stage another volunteer had joined us, and we were now six. The driver took us through the outlying villages where we saw rice harvesting and milling, mat weaving and silk weaving. There was also a ruined temple, much like those at Siem Reap, but still in its natural state, not reconstructed as many of theirs are.
After lunch we drove quite a distance to the only winery in Cambodia. Now this was an experience. We paid $2 each for 4 tastings. The first was their shiraz. It had a nose best described as sewer pit, and a taste not quite as bad. Then we discovered they don't have any left to sell. Next was their brandy, a whiff of this was good to clear the nostrils. The last two were a grape juice and a ginger and honey. The juices were reasonably palatable.
Trellised vines at the winery
By this stage we were running a bit later than planned and to get to the mountain temple, the driver decided rather than go all the way back into town and out again, he would take a shortcut. He hadn't used this road for a year as it hadn't been passable. It wasn't quite to the improved state he thought, and at one stage the road was so boggy we all suggested that we get out and navigate our way through the mud on foot to give the tuk tuk a better chance of making it. It did make for a good laugh.
Our tuk tuk negotiating the pot holes without the extra weight of six people
Us negotiating the mud
Finally we could see the temple in the distance. On arriving, we were told if we wanted to see the temples and the wonderful view, there was only one way. Too steep for the tuk tuk, and too steep to walk that far. So it was a moto or nothing. After negotiating a price ($2.50 each return) it was onto the back of a motor bike. We won't discuss safety issues such as helmets etc. Half way up was the temple, and at the top another, with superb views out over the countryside.
View from the top
The temple on top of the mountain
Moto driver (he looked about 15)
Thanks to our cross country jaunt, we were now at the perfect time to view the bat cave. Our motos took us back down the mountain and deposited at the best viewing point on the road. Right on cue, out came the bats. I was told there are two billion of them in there. What a site as they streamed out. It takes an hour for them all to fly out, but we didn't wait for that. Part way back to town, the driver stopped to show us the continuous black swirling line of the bats
Bats existing the cave
The line of bats that went for miles
Back in town we headed straight for the Phare Ponleu Selpak circus. What an unbelievable spectacle for the next hour. This school gives children from deprived backgrounds training in acrobatics. Our performance had 16 -17 year olds and we couldn't believe the energy and tricks they performed. The hour just flew.
By this time it was 8.00 pm so a late dinner and to bed after such a long and interesting day.
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