It's a rather strange town, but has a lot of history. The wharf area is the oldest part of the town, but the majority of the residential area including the caravan park is 5 k's south. Then further south again is the community club, the newest cemetery, and a rather large racecourse. They call the areas Three Mile and Six Mile. So the town really consists of three separate areas.
Our first afternoon we had a look around the old port area. There is a floating pontoon (not very croc safe), but in 2012 they opened a community jetty and at the end of this we found a trawler selling local prawns at a good price. Yum. There were a few people fishing, but the temperature was really too high to be out there in the sun. Early morning or late afternoons looked a more pleasant alternative.
So Jim got up at daybreak on Friday morning. Since we crossed a time zone, this is quite early. This is supposed to be a great fishing area, but we have heard that before at many places. After an hour of only catfish, he was so excited to land probably his biggest fish ever. It was a 74cm mulloway, also known locally as a golden grunter. By the time he got back and it was cleaned and filleted, a lot of the morning had gone.
After the fillets were safely deposited in the fridge and freezer, we headed back down the highway to The Grotto. This is the only safe place to swim in the area. Apart from this, it is a stunning place, with sheer cliffs down to the swimming hole. There are 140 steps straight down. The sign said that the water has a depth of 300 feet. It didn't take me long to realise that this depth of water probably meant that the water was very cold. Yep. We confirmed that very quickly. The only thing quicker was the amount of time we spent in the water. A very quick dip. We were the only ones down there at that time.
A cold dip
We then headed to Parry Creek Farm. This is about 20 k's out of Wyndham, and the only other caravan park in the area. It has excellent reviews, so we were very surprised to see only about half a dozen campers in there, and it is getting into peak season. The For Sale sign on the gate didn't help. The park in Wyndham has new owners as of last year, and they have worked very hard, and the park is a credit to them. We have noticed that their sites seem to be full every night. Perhaps the reason for so few at the other park that is further out, and more expensive. But we had a lovely lunch at their cafe. The lady at the information centre in town told us to ask to be seated upstairs overlooking the billabong. So glad so did, it was absolutely lovely, and so much better than just sitting inside a building. But we couldn't spot the resident freshwater crocodile.
Lunch overlooking the billabong.
After lunch we headed to the Marlgu Billabong, an area just teaming with birds, and a great hide for watching them.
This cormorant was quite ambitious taking this fish just in front of us. But it was too big for him, and got away.
Our stopover on the way back was the Bend Cemetery. Just like the town being in sections, there are a number of cemeteries. This one was from 1890 to 1922. Around 1912 to 1914 a meatworks was built at the wharf area. The cemetery holds twelve men who died while building this. It was interesting to read the sign that detailed their demise. Many were listed as heat stroke. We noticed one day in December where two had died on the one day, one from drowning and one from heat stroke. Two others died another time a day apart. What a harsh environment it must have been.
By now it was late afternoon and time to head to the Bastion Lookout. This has a great view of the five rivers that flow into the port but unfortunately we picked a night that was a bit hazy, so not as clear it might have been. But this didn't stop lots of others up there looking as well.
After lunch we headed westerly on a rough road, which took us to the dam which holds the town's water supply. Near this is a rock area with aboriginal cave paintings. We climbed up to look at these.
Further up the road was the prisoner boab tree. This huge tree is supposed to have been used to lock up aboriginal prisoners in the 1890's. An opening was cut into the tree.
Our second lasts stop as it was heading towards sundown was at the Afghan cemetery. The cameliers from the 1890's who helped open up this area are buried facing Mecca. The graves are very large, and it is said this is because their lead camels were buried with them. Before heading back to the van we detoured to see the aboriginal sculptures. These were much bigger than life sized.
Dinner that night was the local fish with a topping of local garlic prawns. As I was taking things outside, I stepped into my thongs and felt something on top of my foot. I thought it felt like perhaps a large insect. I kicked it off and couldn't believe my eyes when it didn't run, hop or fly, but slithered. It was only about 15 centimetres long, and I soon realised that perhaps what had felt like insect feet had maybe been scales. Eek. By the time I found a torch it was long gone, and it can stay that way.
Sunday while Jim was fishing again, I went to the Sunday Market held here at the park. The fresh fruit and vegetables were gone pretty much as soon as they were put out. After Jim got back we spent some time at the museum. For the small price to get in, there was a lot to see. Such a lot of history around here. During the afternoon we drove out to Three Mile Valley where there were supposed to be walks. The signs were there, but we took one look at the overgrown path and decided it was better to give it a miss.
Tomorrow we are off to El Questro for probably four days then on to the Bungle Bungles. No phone or internet for most of the week is very likely.
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