El Questro

From Wyndham to El Questro is only about 100 kilometres.  El Questro has always been on my bucket list, so I have been surprised at how few family members had heard of it. I'm not even sure where I first heard of it, but I have seen photos and TV shows on it.  Of course I now realise the photos of the buildings overhanging the gorge are at The Homestead, which must be quite exclusive as they don't even show it on their maps.  What is obviously the road into it says Private - No Access.  We could see it from some of the lookouts, and the closest view was from Branco's Crossing.

The Homestead from Branco's Crossing

The road out to here is surprisingly good, the end of the Gibb River Road and the only part that is sealed.  But the "driveway" to El Questro is 16 kilometres of rough dirt road.  Although rutted and corrugated in places, it wasn't too bad and we were here before 11 to check in.  It is very much a commercial venture here, and priced accordingly.  They charge $20 a head for a wilderness pass for up to 7 days then the camping is $20 a head, more if you want one of their new power sites or private river sites.  The best value was to stay at least 4 days and get 20% off so the fourth day only costs a few dollars.  There is lots to see here, so 4 days sounded good. 

Our run of good campsites since returning from Melbourne holds up, and we get a nice sunny site not far from the water, and an easy drive through.  So we find a nice level spot and proceed to set up.  Hmm.  The front boot won't open.  Until we get into this, we can't do anything as the jockey wheel and numerous other useful items are in there.  Jim tries numerous sprays and we keep trying to no avail.  So over two hours later and with the help of two other campers, we have the lock removed.  Unfortunately for us, all the useful tools were in the boot, so we were very grateful for the help.  The next big town we will have to look for a new lock, and we will have to tape up the boot when we leave. 

So the first day hasn't gone exactly as planned, so we ended up not venturing too far away, looking around the station and what it is here, and planning our days. 

The plan for the first day is up early to do the El Questro Gorge walk.  No need to set an alarm here.  As soon as it is daylight, the helicopters are taking off on their sunrise trips, and a small plane felt like its wheels ran across the top of the van it was so low.  I did mention this is very much a commercial venture, and counting eight helicopters in the field as we drove out certainly showed this.  After a couple of deep water crossings we arrive at El Questro Gorge.  There are only two other cars parked there.  We start the walk, and in a very short time we are blown away with what we are seeing.  Huge orange cliffs fringed by palms, and looking so beautiful in the morning light.  Soon we are in the shaded gorge picking our way over the rocks.  It took us 50 minutes to reach the swimming hole and the turn around point.  There is a longer walk, another hour and a half each way, but it is listed as extremely difficult and only for the adventurous.  The one we did was adventurous enough for us.  To continue on to the other track involves going through the swimming hole and then scaling this huge 3 metre high boulder.  I think they are trying to tell us something.  The swimming hole is deceptive, so clear and it looks like about knee depth, which I thought was disappointing.  Jim being less of a sook than me, donned his bathers and headed in.  Yes, very deceptive, some of it was over his head.  But also very cold, not for me. 

 Beautiful El Questro Gorge

The pool at the end.  To continue the harder walk you have to scale that rock.

Rock climbing, we are getting good at this

Heading back out of the gorge we were so glad we had left early.  We were the only ones at the pool for about five minutes before another couple caught up to us.  But walking back out we passed so many people, it was going to be very crowded indeed in that little pool.  Lots of kids too, and we have since found out it is school holidays here. 

It was just after ten when we got back to the car, so still time to have a dip at Zebedee Springs.  They only open these from 7.00 am to midday.  The water temperature is between 28 and 32, much more to my liking, and they are one of the highlights of El Questro.  There are a number of small rock holes, of varying temperatures depending how far down you go.  It's not a big area and would get crowded very easily.  We were lucky as quite a few people were leaving as we arrived.  Many try and and go at 7 am to avoid the crowds.  We spent an hour soaking, then drove into the Jackeroo Waterhole.  A lovely spot, very nicely set up for a picnic.  But back to the van for lunch for us.

After lunch, we decided to try out the swimming holes at the camp.  The best one is in front of the restaurant, and surprisingly we had it to ourselves until we were getting out. 

It was then back in the car for some more exploring.  We drove up to Chamberlain Gorge, but discovered without hiring a boat or going on their cruise, you really miss the gorge itself. 

On the way back to the camp we 4 x 4 up to the Saddleback range lookout.  Fantastic 360 degrees views from up there. 

From Saddleback lookout back to the Station camp.

The next morning, no need for an alarm clock as the early morning plane flew over the top of the van.  Today's target is Moonshine Gorge and we are again one of the first ones in.  We look at the large sign and then at the flyers and discover they are back to front.  Obviously they have changed the sign but not the flyers and the suggested route is now anti clockwise and the flyers clockwise.  There are two options, up and back to the waterhole (4 ks) or the circuit (5ks), which they say is mostly out in the open.  It's early so we dedice the circuit sounds less boring, but lest go clockwise as it is early and they say it is out in the open.  This part of the walk turned out to be the easiest.  One kilometre on open savannah then another k on what was an old 4 x 4 route with a gentle grade up, then the next k was through some dry river beds.  We couldn't find where to cross the stream, so shoes off and we waded through.  But then we couldn't find the track again.  Fortunately another couple appeared at this time and we could see where we should be.  The pool was lovely, but really not as nice as the one at the bottom that was only 5 metres from the car park.  Jim had a swim, and I again piked out as it looked too cold, and then back on the track.  This is where the fun started.  The tracks are marked with blue diamonds on the rocks and blue plastic tape in the trees.  Someone was a bit scabby on this track as we had a great deal of trouble keeping on the track.  In fact we got lost at least three times.  It was a fairly difficult walk with lots of rocks, some rock climbing, and rock hopping over the creek.  After nearly three hours we finally got back to the bottom pool and an enjoyable swim.  I even got in for this one.  Interestingly our neighbours at the park (who we were also next to at Wyndham) had arrived at the car park about the same time as us and had decided to just do the return trip.  We asked how they got on, and they didn't go very far at all as they found the trail too difficult to follow.  So at least it wasn't just us.

Top pool

Bottom pool, and I did get into this one

Time for lunch then out to explore Branco's Lookout and Explosion Gorge.  The first surprise we got was Branco's crossing.  The maps forgot to mention that this was a bit tricky.  It was just a long stretch of large and small boulders that you had to pick your way across, and just when you thought it was finished you discovered you were on a bit of an island and you had to do it all again.  The tour bus was ahead of us, and our view of the gorge was only from above.  The tour group drove down a road that was closed to us, and then we saw them all get into a small boat to explore the gorge.  We headed back and detoured up to Branco's Lookout.  All the lookout views are spectacular.

Branco's Crossing

Explosion Gorge with the tour boat

From Branco's Lookout

Thursday morning we decided on something other than a long walk, and headed to what is supposed to be the latest road, right into the wilderness at Pigeon Hole.  Yesterday we saw two dingos and this morning we were treated to two large brolgas dancing beside the road.  

Dingo - not the least bit afraid

Brolgas on the road

We drove up to the lookout first and were rewarded with river views in all directions.  We then headed to Pigeon Hole.  The sign wasn't joking when it said high clearance 4 wd and experienced drivers only.  We got to a part that had a huge hole in the road, but they had put in a chicken turn around.  But down we went, and soon after we came to what can only be described as rock stairs.  Very interesting.  However when we got to the waterhole, it was a beautiful spot and I happily sat in a chair in the shade while Jim tried unsuccessfully to fish.  Then it was time to tackle the track again.

Jim attempting to fish at Pigeon Hole

Part of the track - photo doesn't do it justice

For the afternoon we had decided that we had done most of what was on offer, and our favourite place was Moonshine Gorge, so we would head back to there.  Jim tried fishing there and had some fun as he actually got some bites.  But although dressed for the occasion, we didn't venture in for a swim after all.  In the morning the sun shines on the pool, but in the afternoon it is in shade, so it justn't didn't seem warm enough to have a swim.

Our timing for visiting El Questro was not very good with school holidays.  It was reasonably quiet when we arrived, but bursting at the seams by the next morning, and continued that way for the days we were there.  By the second day the septic was overflowing, and the third day the water pump failed and there was no water for a while.  But considering the number of campers, we didn't find a lot of traffic on the roads, so I don't know what they were all doing.  Hopefully they didn't travel all that way and not see the magnificent sites.  

Friday morning we were up and packed and on the road before 8 to head to Emma Gorge, which was back on the main road.  Some more rock hopping and climbing brought us to the most breathtaking site.  These huge cliffs with a small waterfall falling into a very large pool.  There were also lots of small droplets falling around the outer edge of the rim.  It took us 40 minutes each way, so we must be getting fitter with all these walks we have been doing.  But this one was quite a jewel.  

That's Jim in the bottom corner swimming at Emma Gorge

Another beautiful pool on the way up

It was just before midday but we decided to head on another hour before stopping for lunch.  Our stop was the Dunham River Rest Area, a popular free camp.  There were already many campers set up, some looking they had been there more than the 24 hours specified.  It was too early for us to stop, so we headed down the road, eventually stopping at Fletchers Creek, a nice spot on the creek, but with no amenities.  Our luck was still holding and we backed into a nice spot next to one of the covered picnic areas.