French Countryside

On Tuesday morning Jim and I once again caught the Metro into the city to catch up with the "free" walking tour.  Not exactly free as you are expected to give a tip, but they are very popular.  They run it in  a number of languages, and the English for that morning was split into 3 groups of around 30.

Many of the sites we walked through we had seen in the previous two days, but we learnt a lot we didn't know and had things pointed out that we would have overlooked, such as the bullet holes in the building from the French Resistance fighters.  It would have been better to do the tour first, but we didn't have time on the Sunday, and we had planned to do it they day before, but the heavy rain wasn't conducive to a walking tour.

We got back early afternoon, just a few minutes before Lauren and Lee who had done the tour on their honeymoon.  A final pack up and clean, and we had to lug our bags back down the three flights of stairs, plus all the ones to the Metro.


We had planned on the 4.36 train but when we went to buy the tickets, the machine would only take French credit cards, so we had to stand in line for 20 minutes, which meant we were too late and had to wait for the train an hour later.  It was an express train and very comfortable and within a short time we were at Chateau Thierry.

The parents of a French volunteer had visited Cambodia a few weeks earlier and invited all of us to their 250 year old home.  Greta and Jacques were unbelievable hosts and we had a wonderful couple of days with them.

Their 250 year old house

From the train station we went to the American World War 1 monument just out of the town.  Now, Americans don't do things in halves, and this monument is huge and in a commanding site over the town.  The land around it is owned by the USA, and they supply a caretaker to keep the beautiful grounds maintained.  It was very inspiring and we also enjoyed the view out over the champagne vines.

The American monument

From here we travelled to their house which is in the little village of Bonneil, about 8 kilometres from Chateau Thierry with two other villages in between.

We had a delightful evening with them, and before we knew it, it was quite late.  Their house was fascinating.  They bought it as a ruin thirty years ago and still haven't finished doing it up.  They believe it may have originally been three houses, and it is quite big, and something like a rabbit warren with different levels and so many rooms.

The next morning Greta took us to see Chateau Thierry.  The Chateau, or castle, is mostly a ruin with some outer walls still remaining.  But it dates back to 923 and has a gate that Joan of Arc road through.  We enjoyed walking through the narrow winding streets of the town and seeing the real French countryside.

One of the gates of Chateau Thierry

So we were in the Champagne district of France,  where should we go after lunch? To a champagne cellar of course.  And these were fascinating.  The caves were made in the 12th century and were actually a quarry for a lot of the rock used in the town and parts of the castle.  We had a guided tour (in English) explaining the history of the caves and the method of making champagne.  And a taste at the end of course.

Champagne grapes

We saw some more of the town, and it was time to head back to the village and another wonderful evening with Greta and Jacques.

This morning by the time we had breakfast and once again repacked everything, there was just enough time to walk up the road through the champagne vines and see the view back down to the village, plus a quick look at the ancient church in the village.  Unfortunately as in a lot of the villages, there is no money to maintain this ancient church so their futures are bleak as there are just so many ancient buildings in France.

The village looking back from the grapevines

We caught a train back to Paris and navigated with full bags through the Metro and to the train to Versailles.

And that was where the afternoon went, exploring this magnificent castle and the equally splendid gardens.  Although both are so huge it would be impossible to cover all of it in one day let a lone an afternoon, we did see quite a lot and were quite awestruck by the opulence.

It was a late evening out for dinner, and we saw many restaurants as we walked.  We finally chose one with reasonable prices that was jam packed with locals, always a good sign.  And we weren't let down as we all enjoyed our dinners.


We have not had internet for two days, so it was nice to be able to be back in touch.

Paris Highlights

Jim and I left Lauren and Lee to catch up with a volunteer friend, and we set out to do some of the things they had already seen.  So what would be our first stop - the Eiffel Tower of course.  I knew it was big, but was still surprised at the area it took up.  We got there about ten minutes after opening, and there was a huge queue snaking around the bottom of the tower.  We headed to the end of it, to discover a second, short queue that said stairs.  So we decided that we really weren't looking for the elevator anyway, and we were happy with the stairs.  Within about five minutes we had our tickets and were heading through the security checks.

We only went as far as the first floor even though we could have gone higher.  I don't particularly like heights, and figured I wasn't going to see much more going higher.  And the views were fantastic.  We spent about an hour on the deck looking out over Paris.  On the way down we spotted army personnel patrolling the bottom with their M16's in hand.  I don't know if they were following us, but they certainly looked the same ones that we saw at every place we went to that day.

We crossed the road and headed to the Seine, just missing a cruise boat that had just departed.  The next one was half an hour, so we ended up first in line.  No sooner had we boarded the boat and it started to rain.  By the end of our hour cruise it was pelting down, so much so that we waited 40 minutes in the hope it would ease.  Eventually we had to make a move, so we tested out our new water proof jackets (thank you Scott for getting these from the States for us, they were a blessing).  The jackets did a great job, but only to where they finished so the rest of us was quite wet.  It was lunch time so we headed for the first cafe we came across, not caring what it cost as long as we were dry.  Everyone else must have had the same thought, because we had to wait until a table became free (but at least we were inside).

The rain had eased by the time we left, so the next stop was Notre Dame.  This year is its 850th anniversary.  What an unbelievable place this is.  It's huge and so beautiful.  So many little chapels around the sides and the magnificent altar area in the middle.  We spent a long time here, both inside and out.


We then made the short walk to St. Chappelle.  This is around the same age, but has been swallowed up by the Justice Department.  We weren't sure if all the high security screening we went through was for the chapel or the rest of the area.  Although quite small, it is very unusual.  To start with it is two floors.  The bottom floor is reasonably unprepossessing, although it does have the oldest wall painting in France (1300's).  Then you climb one of the spiral staircases to the second floor, and you are greeted by these enormously high walls all of stained glass.  Quite a site.

By this time Lauren and Lee has messaged us and caught up outside.  Off to the train station again, and we were soon in Montmartre, exiting the train right at Moulin Rouge.  Then the long but interesting climb up the narrow streets to Sacre Coeur Cathedral.  Apart from the Eiffel Tower, it has to have some of the best views in Paris.

Next stop was Montparnasse and the tower.  I don't know how many floors it is, but I took one look at the diagram that showed it open at the top and clear glass all around, and said no good me spending money on that, so Lauren and Lee went alone.  After they had been up they were able to tell us that there is also an enclosed viewing area the floor under which I might have been able to cope with.  I'll be happy looking at Lee's photos.

By the time we got home it was ten o'clock, so a very long day.

Leaving Cambodia/Arriving Paris

Thursday morning was spent repacking bags and pretty much waiting for the time to catch the bus.  We had originally planned on getting the 1.50 pm bus, but it was booked out so we ended up on the 2.50.

What a painful trip this was.  To start with, it was over 40 minutes late.  Speed limits in Cambodia seem to have a maximum of 60 kph, so getting anywhere is a slow process.  Added to this we encountered a heap of road works coming into Phnom Penh.  The last 20 minutes took over an hour.  It was 8.00 pm when we finally got there.

Friday was our last day in Cambodia.  In the morning we went to have Jim's broken tooth looked at.  Unfortunately they couldn't do anything in the one day, but flattened it and put a temporary filling in.  A shame rather because dental care is very cheap, and unlike the medical care, highly regarded.  The clinic we went to is used by the expats and they advertise dental holidays.

 It was then on to the market, then after lunch we spent quite a few hours at the Royal Palace.  After an ice cream stop, it was time for a quick look over the Night Market.  It had just opened so was very quiet to look around.  This was our last chance to see ridiculously cheap prices.

The hotel had been nice enough to store all our luggage, and said we could also use the shower in their spa/gym facility.  This was an offer too good to refuse with nearly a day of travelling ahead of us.  Earlier than expected we were ready for the airport.  We got two of the hotel tuk tuks to take us, and we got our last mad experience of travel on the Phnom Penh roads.  We saw a recent accident not far from the airport, and with the amount of traffic in this city it is easy to believe that they could be quite frequent.

We were much earlier than we anticipated and actually had to wait for the desk to open.  Getting rid of the bags was great so through security and up to the departure area.  This is where we appear to have made a major error.  We hadn't had anything to eat since a light lunch at the market, so as our plane wasn't leaving until 11.00 pm, we thought it better to have something while we were waiting.  Lauren and Lee opted for a hamburger at one of only three eateries at the airport.  Jim and I opted for something lighter, and chose a chicken panini.  Big mistake.  Within an hour or two we had bad indigestion symptoms, by the time we boarded the plane we had stomach cramps and I won't go into detail from there.  After two weeks in Cambodia eating various foods in various places including markets and street stalls, we succumbed to food poisoning eating a western meal in our last few hours in the country.

Needless to say, it was not a pleasant flight experience.  We left Phnom Penh, and actually went backwards to Ho Chi Minh City.  The plane took off, reached altitude, seat belt light went off, two minutes later, it came back on again to say we were beginning our descent into Saigon airport.  About 25 minutes in the air.  There only appeared to be about 20 people on the whole plane when we left, but by the time we took off again, the plane was full.  We had been told at the desk it had been over prescribed.

It was about seven (unpleasant) hours to Doha, then around another four at the airport waiting for our connection.  There is a new airport due to be opened soon, and it is badly needed because the existing one is the pits.  Just using the toilets involved a huge cue out the door and down the corridors.  By this stage we had both picked up a bit, but the long wait and then quite a long bus ride to the plane (they must be using the runways at the new airport), and worst of all sitting on the tarmac with no air conditioning as they were running on auxiliary power (temp of 40 degrees that day) sent us backwards.  Another unpleasant 7 hours and we had landed in Paris.

Our bags seemed the last to come off, but finally we were in a taxi and on our way to Paris.  Except for the huge traffic jams.  Oh well, it felt just like Melbourne.

We have a two bedroom apartment which is perfect for our needs.  Getting all our bags up three flights of stairs was a challenge, but we got there.  Supermarket is only a few doors away, so a trip for some basics and then the four of us fought to stay up until at least 8.00 pm, but it was nearly 8.00 am before we all surfaced the next morning.  What a wonderful, needed sleep.

We were quite excited to look out the window in the  morning and see a huge street market being setup opposite us.  What a great way to spend our first morning in Paris, looking at all the wonderful fresh produce.

After lunch, we made our way to the train station, only a few doors away, and within fifteen minutes we were at the Louvre.  This took up the whole afternoon, and of course, we never saw all of it.  But we did see the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, and other famous works.  It was also fascinating to see the Medieval Louvre underground.

It was five o'clock by this stage, but as it is daylight saving here, still plenty of time to do something.  There were so many people in the area enjoying their Sunday afternoon, some just sitting on seats around the fountains.  We walked through the Tuileries gardens, up the Champs Elysees, and to the Arc de Triomphe.

Strolling the Champs Elysees

There was a ceremony at the Arc de Triomphe and I discovered this is a daily occurrence at 6.30 each evening.  Before we knew it, it was past seven, so time to catch the metro back to our apartment to partake of our morning purchases.

Sustainable Cambodia

This morning Lauren had arranged for us to be included in the orientation for the new volunteers.  This showed us some of the projects they are involved in.  Sustainable Cambodia is supported by Rotary clubs in Canada and Australia.
Sustainable Cambodia's aim is to not just supply items, but to empower the people and make them self sufficient.

We were taken by moto (everyone had helmets this time) to a local village.  The first stop was around 7.30 am at the pre-school.  There were about 20 very small and very well behaved children sitting around a large table.  They are taught basic schooling such as numbers, letters and some songs.  They are also taught basic hygiene such as washing their hands after the toilet and before meals.

There are a number of reasons for this school.  Firstly, it gets them and their parents used to to idea of attending school.  It releases the parents to work the farm, as well as older children who might have to look after the little ones instead of attending school themselves.  They learn good habits, and lastly, they are all given a nutritious breakfast, so that they can guarantee they have had at least one good meal a day.  The children's height and weight are also monitored to check these effects

 Breakfast arrives and without being told the children wash their hands

Helping feed her little sister.  There aren't enough bowls for everyone so families share.  Some children had to wait.  On return I went to the market and bought them another ten.

Next we walked through to a farmhouse.  Here SC have put in a well that supports five families, and a sand filter that then makes the water fit for drinking.  The sand filters cost about $80.  Such a small amount for something so worthwhile.  They have also supplied fruit trees which can be watered from the well.

Well and pump

Sand filter.  Each family that accesses the well has their own filter.

Back on the motos and our next stop was a home garden.  Our guide was very proud to tell us that one of the villagers had moved to Thailand to try and find work.  He was able to return to his village with SC giving him a loan to get the garden up and running.  There were very healthy looking bean plants, pumpkins and a number of other vegetables.  We were told how happy he is now, being home and being able to support his family.

The last stop I found the most impressive of all.  At the back of a farmhouse there is a biogas plant.  The manure from one cow is enough to supply gas for cooking and light for one family.  20 kilos of manure is mixed with 20 litres of water, which then goes into an underground tank.  The gas produced from this is then pushed through into the house, and what remains goes into a holding area which can then be used for fertiliser and we were told it can also be fed back to the animals.

The varying components for the gas production.  

Gas connected to the kitchen

This afternoon we continued with the orientation and had a presentation on the work that SC does.  After that it was back on the motos for a lovely scenic drive to one of their schools.  The school program they run is an adjunct to the regular state school, which only runs for half a day (two sessions a day to fit all the children in).  So this is like after school classes.  The children are so enthusiastic and eager to learn.  They all seemed quite excited to have visitors.  

So I guess we are fully orientated now if we want to be volunteers.  I can see why Lauren and Lee have enjoyed their time and feel they have achieved something.

We finished the day with a farewell dinner.  Lauren and Lee had thought about going to a restaurant, but then decided with everyone's heartfelt approval, to do what they have enjoyed the most - street chow.  Lauren saw the street vendor last night to make sure they could cater for 20, and we had a wonderful night with great food.

Lee is still quite sore and sorry and will need to wear his brace for at least two weeks, but has really got off quite lightly.  We will look for another doctor when we reach England.  The other volunteer has been confirmed with Dengue Fever and Salmonella, what a double barrel.  She has been too unwell to return here at present.

Bamboo Train

Cambodians are very ingenious people, especially when it comes to utilising things.  The bamboo train is a classic example.

The railway line here is disused, but the locals have adapted it to their needs.  They take two axles with wheels, a flatbed platform and a motor, put it all together and you have the bamboo train.  Perhaps not the most comfortable to sit on, as the track isn't in great condition and you tend to feel every kerbump, but efficient none the less.  In fact, it was a little frightening just how fast they can get up to.  Of course there are no brakes, the driver has a stick that he uses on the fan belt to slow it up if necessary, and for a full stop you turn off the motor.

Quite a few of the volunteers and some of the older students with Jim and I, set out this morning to experience this unique form of transport.  After a short tuk tuk ride, we all piled on board our little raft.  After only a short time we stopped for fuel.  Now this alone is quite interesting.  Nearly all the little stores sell 2 stroke fuel out the front of their shops.  Johnny Walker whisky bottles are exceptionally popular, but soft drink or even water bottles will do.

We actually went out into the country side quite a distance, seeing farms and little villages along the way.  Occasionally we had to slow down for cattle and dogs to get of the track, but it is most interesting when you meet another train coming towards you on the single track.  There is an unwritten law, the train with the least amount of produce (or people if that is all that is on it), must get off.  So everyone climbs off, the platform is picked up and the axles removed until the other train passes, then put back together again.  On our return we encountered about four heavily laden trains being unloaded of firewood, so there was nothing for it but to get off and walk back the last few hundred metres.

All aboard

Off we go.  Notice the driver with his stick.

Workers in the rice fields

Oops.  Someone else on the track.

Putting the train back together again.

Overgrown area of the track

Another obstacle 

No further than this.  But we were nearly back.

Walking the last section

On the medical front, we are waiting for Lee to return from Phnom Penh on the bus.  He saw a doctor there yesterday and required an xray.  Unfortunately when he went to have it, the machine was broken.  It still was not fixed this morning, and he rang the doctor who suggested he attend the hospital, although this would cost considerably more.  No choice really.  The xray showed a fracture in his wrist and he will need a splint.  We'll find out more information when he returns.  The other volunteer who was quite sick, is waiting for confirmation of her blood results, but they think she has Dengue Fever AND Salmonella.

Lee should get back around six, then we are off to dinner at the home of one of the workers here.  Khmer food is very tasty, without being overly spicy like a lot of Asian dishes.

Pursat

Sunday morning we headed to the market for a street food breakfast, then time for a swim in the hotel pool before catching our 10.00 am bus to Pursat.  This one was only ten minutes late leaving.  We found he scenery different to the last trip as it seemeed more populated along the road rather than field after field of rice.  Lee was able to convince the driver to stop at the school which is on the way into town which saved us trying to get back here with all our bags.

We had arrived at a good time for lunch, then it was time for the trip to the swimming lessons.  Lauren and Lee have been helping with these for the five months they have been here.  The children love it,  as do Lauren and Lee, and to make extra room in the tuk tuk, Lauren and Lee ride their bicycles there and back each week, about 13 kilometres each way which takes about forty minutes.  It didn't seem to be their day yesterday, as Lauren got  a bad puncture on the way.  But unbelievably she did it right outside a bike shop. The Rotary Club here own a tuk tuk which is a converted trailer and has seats down both sides so all the kids try and squeeze in.  An extra tuk tuk had been hired for us, so we took some of the older kids with us.


The swimming lessons are held at a school in a nearby village.  The deal is that the kids from here can use it if the kids from that school can join in.  These lessons are getting so popular that pool room is getting scarce.  The pool has no filtration system.  Once a month they empty and change the water, and throw a bucket of chlorine in once a week.  Yesterday it was very much due for its water change.

Yes the water was the florescent colour.  

We had a big surprise for the children.  We had cleared out K Marts rack of goggles, and took 29 pairs over with us.  Lauren had found the children had difficulty seeing when the chlorine was strong and always had stinging eyes. The children had never seen goggles before, but it took them very little time to get them fitted and get the hang of them.  Leaves were being brought up from the bottom of the pool at a great rate.

Getting used to goggles in no time

All too soon the time was up and as we got into the tuk tuk the sky was very dark and ominous.  Half way back we ran straight into a very heavy storm, and I was worrying about those on their bikes.  We had just pulled up back at the school when Lauren messaged to say that Lee had come off his bike.  We organised for the tuk tuk to go back and collect him and his bike.  For five months he had noticed the big rock in the middle of the road, but this time they were running late with lots of things planned for their return and they could see the storm coming, so they were peddling fast and he forgot the rock.  He hit the side of it, which sent him off sideways.  Probably a good thing as they don't wear helmets over here, and head first may not have been good.  He had some deep nasty abrasions, but the biggest concern was his wrist which was quite painful and he couldn't bend it back.  Some emails back and forwards to Karen only confirmed that he should get it looked at.  Another volunteer here had been quite sick for a few days with a high temperature, and it had been arranged for her to get the bus to Phnom Penh where the medical facilities are better, so Lee left with her this morning.  They may not get back until tomorrow.

After I had patched Lee up with the emergency medical supplies I had brought over, we were off to the school principal's sister's house where we were invited for dinner and to give pizza making demonstrations.  What a wonderful generous hearted person she is.  She has a dressmaking stall at the market and had made Lauren some lovely gifts.  We had a great night with her wonderful food, and they were very attentive to the pizza making taking notes, and everyone enjoyed those immensely too.

This morning Lee headed off on the bus with his swollen wrist and Jim and I had another long forgotten experience.  We cycled to the market.  It is perhaps 25 years since I have been on a bicycle, so I had that to contend with, being on the other side of the road plus the traffic going in all directions.  But we made it back unscathed.

We enjoyed walking around the market and the varying produce and items for sale  The people are so lovely, unlike the clamour of Siem Reap.  We discovered you don't need duty free here.  We bought a 750 ml bottle of Contreau for $13 US.  I also picked out some fabric to be made up the same as a favourite top I brought with me.

It is now the local siesta time, and we will then be heading out to the look at what the Sewing Club here has made, then back to where we were last night, this time for cake making demonstrations.

Battambang

We had arranged to meet up with Lauren and Lee in Battambang.  The most expedient way is by bus.  We opted to do the booking through the hotel, although it cost a little more.  That way we knew we would get the correct bus, plus they organised for the bus company to pick us up from the hotel.  It was $6 each.

A mini van arrived right on 9.00 o'clock to take us to the depot for our 9.30 bus.  I gathered it left relatively on time, being only about 15 minutes late.  The sign as we left said Battambang 167 kilometres. but the trip took over 3 and a half hours.  The first obstacle was getting out of the street the depot is located in.  Half the street is market, so the bus had to negotiate through what wasn't much more than an alleyway, while not collecting any stalls, pedestrians or motos.  Then we spent the next half hour getting out of the city by what appeared to be the back way as we passed many rice paddies and potholes.  After a couple more pickups, we finally cleared Battambang and again it was just rice paddies and pot holes.  Sometimes the bus almost comes to a halt, the road was that bad.  Then you'd get a stretch that was quite good, and off you would go, being treated to Cambodian road maneuvers.  This is where all vehicles overtake whether there is anything else coming or not, accompanied by sounding the horn.  Interesting trip.

With only an hour left of driving, we have to stop in Sisaphon, a compulsory 30 minute rest break.  We all pile off, the bus heads off, and reappears half an hour later, with any remaining space in the baggage hold now filled with produce etc.

So, only a little late, we reach our destination, our tuk tuk driver from the hotel is waiting, and in a short time we are checked into our hotel room.  We discovered the next day that there are two prices - with or without air conditioning.  We didn't get an option, they obviously took one look at us and just gave us air conditioning.  Those with the A/C are given a remote control with their room key.  The room was fine if basic, for the princely sum of $18 a night.  But the hotel does have a pool, and after a late lunch and look around the local market, that's where we made our way.

Battambang was a nice change from Siem Reap.  Not as many tourists make it there, and it was delightful to walk through the market with not one person trying to shove an item at you.

To our delight, Lauren and Lee actually turned up half an hour early.  Lucky they were at the bus stop early as the bus was just about to leave and they just made it on board.  Another volunteer who was going to travel with them got to the depot five minutes early to discover the bus already gone.  She waited two hours for the next one.  So buses are a bit unpredictable over here.

We all went out to dinner together, and headed back to the hotel for what was to be a big day the next day.

We had breakfast at a lovely cafe frequented by westerners.  The previous afternoon we had a cappuccino at the hotel cafe, and it was nice but quite small.  So this time we asked for a big one.  It came in a soup mug!

Lee had organised a larger tuk tuk for us through a friend.  By this stage another volunteer had joined us, and we were now six.  The driver took us through the outlying villages where we saw rice harvesting and milling, mat weaving and silk weaving.  There was also a ruined temple, much like those at Siem Reap, but still in its natural state, not reconstructed as many of theirs are.

After lunch we drove quite a distance to the only winery in Cambodia.  Now this was an experience.  We paid $2 each for 4 tastings.  The first was their shiraz.  It had a nose best described as sewer pit, and a taste not quite as bad.  Then we discovered they don't have any left to sell.  Next was their brandy, a whiff of this was good to clear the nostrils.  The last two were a grape juice and a ginger and honey. The juices were reasonably palatable.

Trellised vines at the winery

By this stage we were running a bit later than planned and to get to the mountain temple, the driver decided rather than go all the way back into town and out again, he would take a shortcut.  He hadn't used this road for a year as it hadn't been passable.  It wasn't quite to the improved state he thought, and at one stage the road was so boggy we all suggested that we get out and navigate our way through the mud on foot to give the tuk tuk a better chance of making it.  It did make for a good laugh.

Our tuk tuk negotiating the pot holes without the extra weight of six people

Us negotiating the mud

Finally we could see the temple in the distance.  On arriving, we were told if we wanted to see the temples and the wonderful view, there was only one way.  Too steep for the tuk tuk, and too steep to walk that far.  So it was a moto or nothing.  After negotiating a price ($2.50 each return) it was onto the back of a motor bike.  We won't discuss safety issues such as helmets etc.  Half way up was the temple, and at the top another, with superb views out over the countryside.

View from the top

The temple on top of the mountain

Moto driver (he looked about 15)

Thanks to our cross country jaunt, we were now at the perfect time to view the bat cave.  Our motos took us back down the mountain and deposited at the best viewing point on the road.  Right on cue, out came the bats.  I was told there are two billion of them in there.  What a site as they streamed out.  It takes an hour for them all to fly out, but we didn't wait for that.  Part way back to town, the driver stopped to show us the continuous black swirling line of the bats

Bats existing the cave

The line of bats that went for miles

Back in town we headed straight for the Phare Ponleu Selpak circus.  What an unbelievable spectacle for the next hour.  This school gives children from deprived backgrounds training in acrobatics.  Our performance had 16 -17 year olds and we couldn't believe the energy and tricks they performed.  The hour just flew.

By this time it was 8.00 pm so a late dinner and to bed after such a long and interesting day.